Savona

City of cruise passengers, popes, sliced meat sandwiches and the world's largest Apple museum, Savona is a tranquil town full of countless surprises.
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It’s not unusual – indeed, it could be said to be emblematic – to take home a fridge magnet shaped like a cruise ship as a souvenir from Savona.

Why be surprised? Savona’s port is one of Europe’s most important cruise ship destinations. Ships dock right in the city centre and newly disembarked holiday-makers are welcomed by a tourist office dispensing useful information and maps highlighting the must-see attractions.

The centre is compact and easily explored on foot, making Savona an ideal city to visit if time is short. But wouldn’t it be worth spending more? Where else will you find Madonnas with three hands, a Sistine Chapel outside Rome, and the world’s only Apple museum equipped with working and usable vintage computers?

Liguria’s third-largest city after Genoa and La Spezia is a surprising place. Nestled along the Riviera delle Palme, the stretch of coastline in western Liguria running from Andora to Varazze, it’s a peaceful town, considerably less expensive than other resorts and characterised by a high quality of life.

It’s known as the City of Popes because Pope Sixtus IV (who commissioned the Sistine Chapel in Rome and its lesser-known counterpart) and Julius II were both born in the surrounding villages. From the opulence of the popes, we move to quiet contemplation for the victims of war in a ritual that has continued unbroken for over 80 years.

Beaches are within easy reach and there’s no shortage of opportunities to sample Liguria’s excellent food. Local speciality? Mouth-watering street food: the panino con le fette is a white bread sandwich filled with slices of fried panissa (a Ligurian dish made with chickpea flour, water and salt).

Things to do in Savona

Savona is a city full of unusual and varied things to see. Here are the must-see attractions.

Priamar Fortress

1Corso Giuseppe Mazzini, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

Approaching from the sea, one of the first things you notice about Savona is the imposing Priamar Fortress; it was built between 1542 and 1544 on the site of one of the city’s earliest inhabited settlements.

It initially had a defensive function, which explains the austere appearance of its external walls, but it changed purpose several times over the centuries, most notably serving as a prison during the Risorgimento period. Rather than a castle, as it is sometimes described, it’s a defensive complex comprising several buildings.

Today it houses two museums, the Archaeological Museum and the Sandro Pertini and Renata Cuneo Museum, serves as the venue for the city theatre’s summer opera season and is used as a location for weddings and events.

Admission to the monumental complex is free, whilst the museums and events are chargeable.

Mazzini’s Cell

Among the prisoners held at Savona’s Priamar Fortress was one notable figure: Giuseppe Mazzini.

Accused of conspiratorial activities, the Italian patriot was imprisoned in the fortress from November 1830 to March 1831. During his detention, he devised the Giovine Italia, the political movement he officially founded in Marseille in 1831 and which played a fundamental role in Italian unification.

Mazzini’s cell can be visited by appointment only.

Savona Archaeological Museum

2Corso Giuseppe Mazzini, 1, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

The Savona Archaeological Museum displays ancient artefacts that tell more than a thousand years of history from the Priamar hill.

The collection includes Bronze Age and early medieval finds from the area, Islamic and Byzantine ceramics brought to Savona in the early centuries of the late medieval period, majolica and earthenware from more recent periods; it’s also possible to view the remains of a Byzantine necropolis through a glass floor.

Sandro Pertini and Renata Cuneo Art Museum

3Corso Giuseppe Mazzini, 1, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

Inside the Palazzo della Loggia within the Priamar complex is a museum listed on many websites and tourist guides as the Pertini Museum.

Inaugurated in 2013, it’s divided into two separate sections, dedicated to two celebrated collectors who donated their artworks to the city: former President of the Republic Pertini and sculptor Renato Cuneo. The museum’s official name honours both collectors.

Old Darsena

4Via Calata Pietro Sbarbaro, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

Just a 5-minute walk from Priamar Fortress, the Old Darsena is the beating heart of city life. For locals, it’s a popular meeting place; for tourists, it’s a pleasant surprise.

Part of it has been decommissioned, but the fishing boat moorings and tourist port remain in operation. From the quays and jetties you can observe the boats and passing people, or you can watch one of the many open-air events organised both day and evening.

Brandale Tower

5Piazza del Brandale, 2r, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

For locals it’s the “Campanassa“, an affectionate name it earned for its great 14th-century bell that marks the city’s most important events. For visitors, it’s the Brandale Tower.

We’re talking about Savona’s iconic building, a massive medieval tower positioned waterfront facing the darsena.

It was once an integral part of the city walls that defended the town; today it’s one of the few surviving remains. Its origins are uncertain, but construction can be traced to the 12th century. The interior of the tower can be visited by appointment.

Next to the tower stands the 14th-century Palazzo degli Anziani (Palace of the Elders), which houses a collection of tombstones and inscriptions taken from city centre buildings that were demolished or destroyed.

Sistine Chapel of Savona

6Piazza del Duomo, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

It’s not comparable in fame and opulence to the celebrated one in Rome, but the Sistine Chapel of Savona is certainly a must-see attraction. Like its much-visited Roman counterpart, this chapel was also built at the behest of Pope Sixtus IV, who was born in the province of Savona. A love of art runs in the family: both chapels were indeed embellished by Pope Julius II, a relative of Sixtus IV.

However, the Sistine Chapel in Savona has a different purpose from the Roman one, which was built to host solemn ceremonies: Sixtus IV commissioned this one to honour his parents. Initially it had a simple appearance and housed only the family tomb, adorned with sparse decorations.

The first embellishments were frescoes by Giovanni Mazone, of which few traces remain today. The chapel changed completely in the 18th century with the addition of rococo frescoes and decorations and some structural modifications that transformed it into a music room.

The chapel stands next to the 17th-century Cathedral of the Assumption; this complex also includes the papal apartments where another pope (Pius VII) was imprisoned as Napoleon’s captive in the early 19th century.

The chapel can only be seen by participating in guided tours conducted by volunteers; in some cases it’s also possible to visit the papal apartments.

Civic Art Gallery

72 Piazza Gilbert Chabrol Savona, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

Not to be missed in Savona is the Civic Art Gallery housed within Palazzo Gavotti, an elegant historic centre building built in the 16th century over the remains of medieval structures and profoundly modified in the 19th century.

Spread over three floors with two entrances, the exhibition features various collections of medieval, Renaissance, modern and contemporary paintings.

The most curious section is the collection of icons depicting the “Great Mother of the Three Hands“, namely a Madonna with three hands instead of two, depicted holding the Christ Child.

According to legend, the third hand was added by theologian John of Damascus. After being executed by Emperor Leo III with the severing of one hand for his steadfast defence of sacred images, John of Damascus prayed to the Madonna that his hand be restored. This happened, and the third hand on the icons became his sign of gratitude.

The icons displayed in Savona were collected and donated to the city by Renzo Mantero, an enlightened figure who dedicated his life to hands, both professionally (as a hand surgeon) and as a passion (as an art collector and scholar).

Ceramics Museum

8Palazzo Monte di Pietà, Via Ambrogio Aonzo, 9, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

Adjacent to Palazzo Gavotti, home to the Art Gallery, is the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà. This also houses an important city museum, in this case dedicated to the art of ceramics.

The Savona Ceramics Museum displays works from public and private collections previously scattered across several locations.

AAA - All About Apple Museum

9P.za Fabrizio De André, 12r/14r, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

There are various Apple museums around the world, but Savona’s is unique: the most comprehensive and the only one that allows you to use the items on display. All About Apple in Savona is a fascinating journey through the history of computing from 1976 to the present day, covering the entire production of computers, peripherals and accessories.

The museum’s impressive catalogue contains over 9,000 pieces and includes non-Apple personal computers. The original core of this invaluable collection is a collection of unused Apple computers from a decommissioned warehouse of the Savona-based company Briano Computer.

The opening in 2005 caught the attention of Apple America, which celebrated AAA Savona as the world’s largest Apple Museum.

Don’t hesitate to visit one of the few museums where you’re allowed to touch things: no technical knowledge is necessary. You too will feel affectionate nostalgia and pure admiration for the innovations that these now-obsolete machines brought to our everyday lives.

And if you think you won’t understand much, you can always join a guided tour and have knowledgeable and passionate staff tell you the story of how we got from the first calculators to today’s always-connected devices.

The 6pm Ritual

Every day, 365 days a year, at precisely 6pm Goffredo Mameli Square10, one of the busiest squares in Savona’s historic centre, comes to a complete halt.

Cars, bicycles, pedestrians and public transport stop at the first toll of the War Memorial’s Bell and remain still for 21 tolls (as many as there are letters in the alphabet, which symbolically encompass all the names of the victims).

Who knows if all Savonese really observe a moment of silence to honour the victims of war or if it’s now just a habit. But it is a particular and touching ritual to witness.

Leon Pancaldo Tower

11Piazza Leon Pancaldo, 1, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

Less famous than the Campanassa is the Leon Pancaldo Tower, which was part of the same city walls. Built in 1392, it has a square plan, is fitted with a clock and features a 18th-century fresco on the external façade depicting the coat of arms of the Genoese Republic.

Villa Cambiaso

12Via Torino, 10, 17100 Savona SV, Italy

Another attraction easily reached from Savona’s centre is Villa Cambiaso, a perfectly preserved noble residence.

Its rooms are steeped in history: Pope Pius VII used to celebrate Mass in its chapel, a state dinner for Mussolini was held in the noble floor, and equally beautiful are the Italian gardens and the entrance fountain attributed to Bernini.

The villa is open during exhibitions and events or by booking for groups.

Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mercy

If you stay in Savona longer than the few hours allowed by cruises, you can venture out of the historic centre and visit the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mercy.

Located in the San Bernardo area, about 20 minutes by bus from Priamar, it’s a 17th-century Marian sanctuary built to give thanks to the Virgin Mary following an apparition to a local farmer. The sanctuary includes a church in Mannerist style, a sacred art museum and a garden.

Map

In the following map you can see the location of the main places of interest mentioned in this article.

Savona’s beaches

Whilst not among Liguria’s most famous, Savona’s beaches are perfect for a few hours of sea-side relaxation.

Along the city shoreline, stretching approximately 4 km, beaches alternate between free and equipped areas; almost all are sandy, though rocky areas and rocky outcrops can be found too. The sea is clean and in many places shelves steeply soon from the shore, so care should be taken.

The beaches closest to Savona’s centre are those hugging the waterfront extension that stretches for about 1 km from Priamar Fortress to the east bank of the Letimbro river. Along this stretch you’ll find 2 free beaches and 8 beach facilities.

Other city beaches are Fornaci Beach, Natarella Beach and Zinola Beach. They’re located between 1 and 4 km from the railway station and can be reached on foot or by local buses.

Where to stay in Savona

Although not known as a tourist destination, Savona offers a good choice of accommodation. Many hotels and guesthouses are designed for those catching a cruise or ferry and wanting the peace of mind of arriving the day before departure, so they’re concentrated in the centre, conveniently located for the port’s passenger terminal.

Just a short distance from the centre you’ll find international chain hotels, modern and comfortable. There’s no shortage of beachfront hotels for those wishing to combine cultural visits with sea-side relaxation.

Hotel and bed & breakfast prices in Savona are generally lower than in Liguria’s better-known tourist destinations.

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How to reach Savona

Savona is the capital of its province, situated in western Liguria approximately 60 km from Genoa (heading east) and 120 km from Imperia (heading west).

You can reach Savona by car from (almost) any direction: from the north take the A6 Turin-Savona motorway, from the east and west the A10 or alternatively the SS1 Aurelia coastal road. From the south, you can only arrive by sea!

Arriving in Savona by train is also very straightforward, as the town is connected to major cities throughout central and northern Italy with direct trains. The railway station is located around 800 metres from Piazza Mameli, the heart of the town.

The closest airport is Genoa, served by budget flights departing from Italy’s major cities.

Savona Weather

What's the weather at Savona? Below are the temperatures and the weather forecast at Savona for the next few days.

Sunday 24
16°
27°
Monday 25
16°
29°
Tuesday 26
18°
29°
Wednesday 27
16°
27°
Thursday 28
15°
25°
Friday 29
16°
26°

Things to do near Savona

Savona is an affordable destination, so why not use it as a base to explore the attractions in the surrounding area?

Finalborgo is considered one of Italy’s most beautiful villages: within its perfectly preserved medieval walls, it safeguards architectural treasures and romantic views.

Albenga is a perfect destination for leisurely holidays or thrilling outdoor adventures; after cultural visits or hiking or cycling excursions, you can all gather to enjoy a glass of excellent local wine.

Opposite Albenga lies the enchanting Isola della Gallinara, to be admired on a boat trip or an exciting dive into its stunning seabed.

From Savona you can easily reach by car, train or bus some of the Riviera di Ponente’s most important seaside resorts, including Alassio, Pietra Ligure, Noli, Bergeggi and Finalmarina (Finale Ligure).

Don’t miss the Baia dei Saraceni at Varigotti, “the Saracen village”, less than 20 km from Savona.

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