Albergo Serena
Lerici - Via Della Libertà 22
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Whilst one of the most developed centres on the Riviera di Levante, brimming with tourist facilities, it would be unfair to think of Lerici purely as a seaside resort.
It’s certainly an ideal destination for a dream seaside holiday, thanks to the incredible number and variety of beaches and coves that line its coast, all bathed in Liguria’s characteristically crystal-clear azure waters.
What truly makes it a gem, however, are the enchanting vistas and postcard-perfect scenes that captivated and inspired poets and writers of English Romanticism in the 19th century, among them Lord Byron and the Shelleys. Centuries before them, Dante, Petrarca and Boccaccio were illustrious visitors to Lerici, and later figures such as Giosuè Carducci and Gabriele d’Annunzio made their mark.
Go in search of Lerici’s most romantic corners yourself. Where might they be hiding? In the narrow lanes of the historic centre, within the elegant Italian gardens of an 18th-century villa, along the waterfront promenade, within a magnificently preserved castle, on the cliffs or in the woodland of the hinterland?
Finish your treasure hunt with a delightful dinner at a charming traditional restaurant, perhaps overlooking the sea; if you need inspiration, the local speciality is mussel soup à la lericina. And before you head to bed or enjoy yourself at one of the lively spots along the shore, take a look at the illuminated gulf. What a sight!
The sights to see in Lerici will leave you breathless: not one but two evocative seafront castles, villas that played a starring role in 19th-century literary ferment, characteristic harbours, historic churches, curious natural phenomena… and that’s just to mention the most famous attractions!
Lerici’s top attraction is the magnificent Castello di San Giorgio, which dominates the town from atop a promontory east of the tourist harbour.
Built between the 12th and 13th centuries, it retains its imposing defensive walls intact and has recently been restored to its former glory. Polygonal in shape, it stands majestically against Liguria’s azure sky, framed by the colourful houses of Lerici’s centre and the dense vegetation covering the promontory on which it sits.
The castle houses the Geopaleontological Museum, recommended for all fossil and mineral enthusiasts; for everyone else, we suggest climbing to the castle to admire spectacular views over Lerici, nearby villages and the sea.
Don’t be put off by the steep climb: to reach the castle, you don’t need to navigate the narrow alleyways of the old town or climb the 168 steps that lead to it. You can simply take the lift instead!
Villa Marigola is a splendid 18th-century building at the top of the promontory that separates Lerici’s centre from the hamlet of San Terenzo. Built as a summer residence for the Ollandini marquises, it became emblematic of 19th-century Romanticism and the grand tours of Italy undertaken by English intellectuals.
This place held particular sway over Percy Bysshe Shelley and his wife Mary (author of Frankenstein), who stayed in the adjoining Villa Magni. Originally built as a Barnabite monastery in the 16th century, the “white house” famous as the Shelley Villa was later purchased by the Ollandinis, who converted it into an elegant residence directly overlooking the sea (in 1888 the road separating the villa from the sea was built).
More than a century has passed since the days when the villa inspired immortal verses, yet Romanticism still pervades this unique place: the stunning sea views and lush gardens, which include a perfectly manicured Italian garden and a wilder naturalistic garden, will captivate you at first glance.
Among Lerici’s religious buildings, one of the most characteristic is the Oratorio di San Rocco, built in the late 13th century on the remains of an earlier church and enlarged in the 16th century.
Its distinctive feature is the bell tower, built in Roman times as a defensive tower and converted to a bell tower in the 16th century.
After exploring Lerici’s centre, dedicate some time to the hamlets of San Terenzo4 (to the west), Fiascherino5 and Tellaro6 (to the east).
These are three characterful fishing villages reminiscent of the Cinque Terre hamlets: here too you’ll find breathtaking views, a chaotic yet charming mass of tower-houses with colourful facades and stunning seas that crash forcefully against dark rocks.
San Terenzo is the closest to the centre (just 2 km away) and the most important, whilst Fiascherino and Tellaro are smaller and have a more relaxed atmosphere. The latter in particular is part of the Montemarcello-Magra Regional Natural Park and has been included in the list of Italy’s most beautiful villages.
In the San Terenzo hamlet there is an austere 16th-century castle perched on a rocky spur overlooking the sea. Though less imposing than Lerici’s castle, the Castello di San Terenzo7 is a spectacular sight both day and night.
It is spread over two levels, the more recent one lower, with a pentagonal plan and three corner towers, whilst the older one has a single tower. Originally built for defensive purposes, it is now used to host exhibitions and performances.
Not to be missed in Lerici is the waterfront promenade connecting Lerici’s centre to the San Terenzo hamlet. What makes this walk exceptional is that both its beginning and end are marked by a castle perched on the sea.
This easy walk suitable for everyone allows you to admire the alternation of sandy beaches and coves that characterises this stretch of coast; by looking inland you can see the typical Ligurian houses that rise vertically.
To add romance to the experience, take the walk from castle to castle at sunset or, better yet, in the evening, when the gulf lights reflect on the sea, creating a magical atmosphere.
Are you a fan of curious things and strange natural phenomena? Don’t miss the Golden Butterfly of the San Lorenzo Mountains, behind Lerici. These mountains hide a megalithic site made of stones arranged in such a way that the sun’s rays penetrating between one rock and another create the figure of a butterfly on one of them.
The phenomenon reaches its peak visibility around the summer solstice, which hardly seems a coincidence: the butterfly is surely the result of primitive astronomical knowledge and pagan rituals.
Lerici is strategically positioned to explore both the Riviera di Levante and the northern coast of Tuscany. From here you can make wonderful day trips to Portovenere and the Cinque Terre (heading west) or to Viareggio and the fashionable beaches of northern Tuscany to the south-east.
The surrounding area is ideal too for those who love outdoor activities. The area has numerous trekking trails, some very easy suitable for everyone and others more challenging, and you can enjoy various sports, from cycling to water sports.
If your holiday idea is purely beach-focused, perhaps changing beaches every day, Lerici is an ideal destination. Lerici’s beaches are many and varied, able to suit all tastes and needs. The one thing they have in common is Liguria’s beautiful, clear azure sea.
The main town beach is the Lido di Lerici9, the classic sandy beach with beach clubs, easy to reach, safe and well-equipped. Just a short distance away you’ll find rocks and a pier, ideal for dedicated sunbathers.
Heading west you’ll encounter two other convenient sandy beaches. The nearest is Venere Azzurra10, a free beach between Lerici and San Lorenzo, much loved by La Spezia residents and tourists alike. The other is San Terenzo Beach11, a strip of fine, pale sand squeezed between the sea and the colourful houses of the village centre. At both you can hire umbrellas and loungers; San Terenzo also has equipped areas.
If you prefer wild-looking beaches, don’t miss the San Giorgio Beaches12, three tiny stretches of sand at the foot of Lerici castle’s promontory.
The three little beaches, separated by rocks and outcrops, sit in a spectacular bay where the dominant colours are the green of the dense Mediterranean vegetation growing on the promontory and the blue of the sea. They’re reached via a gallery under the castle; there are no facilities, so bring plenty of water and food.
Eco del Mare is the evocative name of a dream cove, nestled in one of the most beautiful inlets not just on this stretch of coast but in all of Liguria. This small equipped beach is 60 metres below road level between Lerici’s centre and the Fiascherino hamlet and is reached via a staircase with panoramic views. For those not wanting to make the effort, there’s also a lift.
Other beaches not to miss around Lerici are La Marinella Deliziosa (below San Terenzo castle) and Baia Blu (beyond San Terenzo village, between Punta Santa Teresa and Punta Galera). The Trigliano Cliff at Tellaro is reserved for daring divers, whilst La Caletta between Lerici and Tellaro, accessible only by sea, falls within an archaeological underwater park and is therefore recommended for diving enthusiasts.
In the following map you can see the location of the main places of interest mentioned in this article.
Once upon a time, Lerici was synonymous with exclusive villas with pools reserved for elite tourism, but today the range of accommodation in Lerici is much broader and includes options for every budget.
If you start looking well in advance, you can find seafront hotels at reasonable prices, and if you’re not too fussy, you can find something affordable. Bear in mind that Liguria in general is not a budget destination, so to secure the best deals it’s wise to book early.
The majority of hotels, B&Bs and apartments in Lerici are located near the beach: some are situated at the historic centre, others a few kilometres away.
Reaching Lerici by car is straightforward: take the A12 Genoa-Livorno motorway and exit at Sarzana, then follow the signs to Lerici. Parking is not quite as easy – or rather, not cheap – since most Lerici car parks charge a fee.
Sarzana is also the reference point for those wanting to arrive by train: the railway station is about 8 km from Lerici and is connected by local buses; other buses to Lerici can be caught from La Spezia.
A more romantic way to reach Lerici is by sea: it takes longer and costs more, but you’ll get to admire Liguria’s splendid coast. Ferries to Lerici depart from La Spezia, Portovenere, Levanto, Cinque Terre and Tellaro; check timetables before travelling and bear in mind that some routes are seasonal.
What's the weather at Lerici? Below are the temperatures and the weather forecast at Lerici for the next few days.
Lerici is a town in La Spezia province (eastern Liguria), situated roughly 11 km west of the provincial capital. Tuscany is very close by (Marina di Carrara is just 15 km away), whilst Genoa lies beyond 100 km distant.
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