Hotel Gianni Franzi
Vernazza - Via San Giovanni Battista 41-47-49
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Vernazza has long featured on lists of places everyone should visit at least once in their lifetime. Recognised across the board as one of Italy’s most beautiful villages – one of those wonders the whole world envies – it is perhaps the most picturesque of all the Cinque Terre.
Noble, elegant, romantic and proud, this unique village boasts just one main street (Via Roma, naturally), which links the village’s living-room-like piazza to the railway station. The other streets are narrow lanes tumbling down to the sea, all leading towards the celebrated little square in front of the harbour, immortalised in countless postcards and selfies.
House-towers with pink, yellow and red facades huddle together in an embrace around the characteristic little harbour, overseen by an iconic church on one side and a castle-fortress perched dramatically above the sea on the other. This is where everyone wants to be at least once in their lifetime.
So why not start with the sea? Arriving in Vernazza by boat is something magical: the little harbour draws closer slowly, the houses grow taller. At this point you’ll already be overwhelmed with emotion and won’t need to ask yourself why you chose Liguria as your holiday destination.
The delightful village of Vernazza is ideally divided into two zones, which together form a single, continuous reality: the harbour area and the elevated historic centre. On foot you can move from the station to the port and then up to the higher part of the village.
Here too, as in all the Cinque Terre locations, there are no famous attractions, prestigious museums or unmissable monuments. People come to Vernazza for the panoramic views, the characteristic streets, the house-towers that rise vertically, the loggias, arcades, doorways, artisan shops and the inevitable little cafés where you can stop and soak up the dolce vita.
But here are some ideas to guide your free exploration of the village.
The nerve centre of Vernazza is Piazza Marconi, the little square overlooking the harbour. Called “u cantu de musse” in the local dialect, it’s the typical Italian piazza where people gather to chat and gossip about everyone else.
For tourists it’s a landing point and a privileged vantage point from which to witness the unique spectacle that is Vernazza village.
Apart from the clifftop villas, the defining building in Vernazza is the Church of Santa Margherita di Antiochia, dedicated to the village’s patron saint. Beautiful in its simplicity, it is both a stroke of colour harmoniously woven into Vernazza’s colour palette and an immediately recognisable architectural element thanks to its unique character.
Its distinctive octagonal tower, 40 metres tall, rises proudly into Vernazza’s sky and is visible from almost everywhere in the village; it once served a defensive purpose. The pale cream colour of its walls creates a striking contrast with the green backdrop of the terraced hillsides.
One peculiarity of this church overlooking the sea is that its entrance is through the side apse rather than the main façade: built on a rocky outcrop, the church was battered by storms and high seas for centuries, and at some point it became necessary to extend it and relocate the entrance.
According to legend, the church was built on the spot where the bones of Santa Margherita’s hand were discovered, having been lost and then found in the same place.
The church’s historical origins are uncertain, however: some historical documents suggest it dates to the 1300s, while the materials and construction techniques suggest it may be older. The original nucleus is in Romanesque style, but it was modified over the centuries with Renaissance and Baroque additions.
Opposite the church stands an old building with galleries that has become a popular gathering place for the locals.
The other historic building that breaks up the continuity of pastel-coloured houses in the centre of Vernazza is Doria Castle, set on a rocky outcrop in the southern part of the village. On one side, the castle looks directly out to sea; on the other, it appears to rest against the row of houses facing the harbour.
This is a medieval defensive fortress, documented from the 13th century onwards, though its original nucleus is probably much older, dating to around the 11th century; during World War II it was used as an anti-aircraft position by German soldiers.
Its irregular shape follows that of the rocky spur, and from a distance it vaguely resembles a ship ready to set sail. The tower in the centre of the platform, known as Torre Belforte, was used for surveillance purposes. An ancient bronze cannon from Vernazza’s Doria Castle is on display at the British Museum in London.
The castle is open to visitors and is also used as a venue for exhibitions and events. Don’t miss it: from here you can enjoy an exceptional panoramic view encompassing the village, the hills behind it, nearby Monterosso, one of the most beautiful stretches of the Levanto coast and the open sea.
In the upper part of the village you’ll find the evocative Sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Reggio, also known by the locals as the Sanctuary of the Black Madonna.
Nestled amongst ancient trees, this 11th-century sanctuary is a perfect place to find peace and escape the heat during the summer season, and it’s also an excellent vantage point for viewing Vernazza from above. It underwent various modifications over the centuries; currently the only original part is the Romanesque stone façade.
It’s likely that “L’Africana” – the famous Black Madonna statue (its colour derives from the materials used) – was brought here at the time of the Crusades.
The sanctuary is about 2 km from the station, at the location of Vernazza’s first inhabited settlement. It’s reached on foot via a well-known path.
Located within the city walls, the Convent of the Reformed Fathers of San Francesco comprises a deconsecrated church, a cloister and a tower.
The latter is one of the few surviving towers from the city’s ancient defensive system and, along with the castle, the Torre Belforte and another 11th-century tower, represents all that remains of the town’s ancient defences.
The convent is currently the seat of the municipality.
The municipality of Vernazza also encompasses Corniglia, the only Cinque Terre village that doesn’t directly overlook the sea. You can reach it by train in just three minutes – why miss it?
Other small villages in the area include Drignana, Muro, Prevo and San Bernardino: the latter can be reached by bus, but services are infrequent and timetables aren’t always reliable. Better to stick to the hiking trails!
In the following map you can see the location of the main places of interest mentioned in this article.
Although not a proper seaside resort, Vernazza allows you to alternate romantic strolls through the historic centre with refreshing dips in Liguria’s azure waters. Vernazza’s beaches, easily reached on foot, number two.
The most famous is the sandy beach next to the harbour: it’s small, unequipped and often crowded, but the setting and the gorgeous green colour of this stretch of sea make it one of Liguria’s most beloved beaches.
The other town beach, slightly larger, is reached from the main piazza.
To find other beaches accessible by land you’ll need to head to the Corniglia hamlet; enchanting little beaches accessible only by boat are scattered all along the Cinque Terre coastline.
Vernazza, like all the Cinque Terre villages, makes an excellent base for wonderful walks in nature.
The most famous walk is along the Sentiero Verde (Green Trail), the easy-going footpath that links all the Cinque Terre locations. It remains a strong draw for tourists, but the truth is that unfortunately at present – and it’s unclear for how much longer – it’s not passable as large sections are inaccessible due to a landslide.
The surrounding alternatives are plentiful, so don’t despair. You can choose from walks of every level, from easy strolls suitable for families with children to demanding treks best tackled only if you’re properly trained.
An easy trail beloved by tourists follows the historic mule path leading to the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Reggio (approximately 40 minutes). From here you can continue to San Bernardino and venture further to the Sanctuary of Soviose at Monterosso. On hiking maps this route is marked as trails 508 (formerly 8) and 582 (formerly 8b).
Remember that Cinque Terre trails should be tackled in proper hiking boots – no sandals or flip-flops.
Given the village’s size, the number of places to stay in Vernazza cannot compete with larger seaside resorts.
The choice of bed and breakfasts and guesthouses is nonetheless good, and to these you can add a couple of 2-3 star hotels, all concentrated in the historic centre near the beach.
There are no luxury hotels in Vernazza: if you’re after something special, opt for charming villas and apartments. Some are in the historic centre, ideal if you want attractions and restaurants within reach, others are on the surrounding hillsides, better suited if you’re after tranquillity and spectacular views.
Vernazza isn’t a budget destination, but a night here, even in the most modest room, is never forgotten. Treat yourself to a dream – you deserve it.
Reaching Vernazza by car is strongly discouraged as cars are banned from circulating through the village and the few car parks available near the centre are reserved for residents. You’ll therefore need to leave your car outside the village (the nearest car park is about 1 km away) and continue on foot or take the bus to the station.
If this and the likely traffic don’t put you off, you can reach Vernazza by car by taking the A12 motorway, exiting at Santo Stefano di Magra and following signs for Cinque Terre-Portovenere to join the Cinque Terre Coastal Road.
The recommended ways to reach Vernazza are train and ferry boat.
The train is the fastest and most economical option. Vernazza station is on the Genoa-La Spezia railway line, well served by frequent regional connections. During the summer months, local trains on the 5Terre Express line are also in operation.
Arriving in Vernazza by sea is slower and more expensive, but it’s so enchanting you won’t regret the time and money spent. Ferries to Vernazza depart from La Spezia, Portovenere, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Monterosso and Levanto; the port is in the historic centre.
From Vernazza you can easily reach the other Cinque Terre villages by train or ferry (with the exception of Corniglia, accessible only by train).
What's the weather at Vernazza? Below are the temperatures and the weather forecast at Vernazza for the next few days.
Vernazzo is a municipality in the province of La Spezia, situated along the Riviera di Levante. The closest villages in Cinque Terre are Corniglia to the east (approximately 3.5 km on foot, 6 km by car) and Monterosso to the west (approximately 4 km on foot, 20 km by car); La Spezia is around 28 km away, whilst Genoa is 100 km distant.
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