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Arma di Taggia - Bussana Vecchia
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Perched on the hills above Sanremo, just 2 km from the sea and less than ten from the vibrant heart of the City of Flowers, sits an enchanting village that art has given a second life. Welcome to Bussana Vecchia, renowned as the Ligurian artists’ village.
Its rise as a tourist destination owes everything to a tragedy that struck over a century ago. On 23 February 1887, an earthquake devastated the village, forcing the handful of survivors to seek shelter on the coast. No one ever returned to live here, and so Bussana Nuova was founded; Bussana Vecchia remained a ghost town for over 60 years.
It might have stayed that way forever, had it not been discovered between the 1950s and 1960s by a group of artists who, captivated by the village’s beauty and potential, rolled up their sleeves, restored the crumbling houses, settled in Bussana Vecchia and founded a free artists’ community.
Thanks to their creative brilliance, Bussana Vecchia is far from your typical stone-built village: it’s a labyrinth of creativity where around every corner you’ll stumble upon colourful artworks and unexpected surprises – the perfect destination for romantic souls and curious minds.
Should you decide to visit Bussana Vecchia (and we heartily recommend you do!), keep your eyes wide open because at every moment you might spot something new and surprising: a vibrant mural, a dreamlike painting, a brightly painted chair hanging on a wall, an everyday object transformed into a planter, a statue nestled into an ancient stretch of fortifications, and who knows what else…
We’re still in Liguria, a region where the sea is never far away. Beyond the imaginative creations hidden between stone walls, flowers and climbing plants, Bussana Vecchia also offers magnificent panoramic views that on the clearest days stretch to the sparkling expanse of the Ligurian Sea, and local restaurants serve delicious fresh fish cuisine.
The village is small – an hour is enough to see it. So what do tourists who spend half a day or more here get up to? Here’s what to see for an unforgettable visit to Bussana Vecchia.
The main attraction of Bussana Vecchia is the artists’ studios, colourful workshops where you can buy everything from valuable artistic creations to charming but not particularly original handcrafted objects. These unique spaces are the principal reason tourists want to visit this ancient village.
Browsing through art galleries, studios and workshops of artists and craftspeople can take more or less time depending on your tastes and how keen you are to purchase something to beautify your home or give as a gift.
The Castle is the other important historic building in Bussana Vecchia, located at the top of the village. Unfortunately, unlike the church, it was almost entirely destroyed and today only some ruins remain visible.
Another lovely corner of Bussana Vecchia that has become a tourist attraction is the Garden among the ruins, a green oasis among the rubble created by Luisa Bistolfi, who arrived in Bussana Vecchia in the early 1970s.
It’s a small, charming private botanical garden in the upper part of the village. It’s laid out on different levels, each packed with romantic spots and splendid views over the town; from the highest terrace there’s a lovely view of the Sant’Egidio bell tower.
A small donation is requested to visit the garden.
A piece of the village’s history is the Church of Sant’Egidio, where most of Bussana Vecchia’s inhabitants were gathered when the devastating earthquake struck.
The church’s origins date back to the Middle Ages, between the late 14th and early 15th centuries. In 1652 it was renovated, transitioning from simple Romanesque style to ornate Baroque.
In 1887 the building suffered devastating damage and has never been restored; even today it’s unstable and can only be viewed from the outside at a safe distance. The space of the central nave has been cleared of rubble and over time has become overgrown with grass and wild plants.
It’s worth peering through the gate at the church: you can see the side niches and cornices adorned with elegant stuccos and decorations, and admire the bell tower up close; the latter, miraculously left intact, has become the symbol of the village.
The image of this gutted church now invaded by nature, yet from which we can still sense its original beauty, is both romantic and deeply moving.
In such a small village it’s natural that people know each other and there’s one essential meeting place: at Bussana Vecchia residents gather for a chat at the Osteria Degli Artisti, the first establishment to open after the village was repopulated in the 1960s.
What’s an essential part of community life for locals is a charming spot for tourists to grab a bite or a drink whilst enjoying the view from its lovely terrace. You can also enjoy dinner with live music.
The colourful streets of Bussana Vecchia are so close to the sea that you can combine a romantic stroll through the village with a leisurely afternoon in the sun in a single day.
The beach nearest to Bussana Vecchia is Bussana Mare, the coastal area of Bussana Nuova: it’s a narrow strip of pebbles lapped by azure waters, with both free beaches and beach clubs.
Heading east you’ll reach Arma di Taggia, a well-known seaside resort on the Ponente Riviera.
Who are the artists of Bussana Vecchia? Where do they come from? What do they do? Around seventy artists have lived a period of their lives in Bussana Vecchia.
Some have made the village their permanent home, whilst others have stayed for a while before moving on elsewhere with their artistic careers. Currently, nearly thirty artists live and work in Bussana Vecchia, and there’s an open studio in the village where visiting artists can exhibit their work.
The first to settle in the village was Mario Giani, a versatile Turin-based artist known by the pseudonym Clizia. It was his idea to create a free artists’ community, but Vanni Giuffrè‘s arrival proved more decisive. The painter arrived in 1965, became president of the community and left nine years later for an adventurous sailing voyage.
By 1968 the population of Bussana Vecchia had grown to about ten; just over a decade later it had swelled to around a hundred (artists and others).
The disciplines pursued by the successive artists who have come to Bussana Vecchia are incredibly diverse. There are painters, pencil sketch artists, ceramicists, clay workers, silk screen printers, installation artists, sculptors… If you’re interested in shopping in a studio you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to colours, techniques and materials.
The Bussana Vecchia artists’ community has also hosted poets, musicians and theatre performers over the years.
Accommodation in Bussana Vecchia is very limited: there are no hotels, just a couple of rooms with private landlords and apartments (mostly studios).
However, staying overnight in Bussana Vecchia is a fascinating experience: so few tourists spend the night here that you’ll get to enjoy the magical atmosphere of the village without the hustle and bustle, and nearly all the B&Bs in Bussana Vecchia are run by the artists who revitalised the village. You can expect beautifully furnished rooms with artistic flair and warm hospitality.
Given the scarcity of tourist accommodation, if you want to stay in Bussana Vecchia we recommend booking well in advance. If everything’s full, don’t worry: in addition to nearby Bussana Nuova, within just 10 km you’ll find Arma di Taggia and Sanremo, two resorts with excellent hotel, B&B and holiday home options.
Reaching Bussana Vecchia by car is very straightforward as this small village is close to major centres with good connections to the rest of Liguria and neighbouring regions. Simply take the A12 Genova-Ventimiglia motorway, exit at Arma di Taggia onto the SS1 Aurelia and follow signs for Bussana Vecchia.
The centre of Bussana Vecchia is closed to cars and parking is available only along the single road leading to the village. It’s advisable to leave your car a few hundred metres before entering the village.
Getting to Bussana Vecchia by public transport is quite another matter: it’s rather complicated as the town has neither a railway station nor bus connections. You’ll need to reach Sanremo by train or bus, then take a local bus to Bussana Nuova and reach the village by taxi or on foot. Be very careful if you choose to walk as the road is very narrow and has no pavements.
The nearest airport to Bussana Vecchia is in Nice, in French territory; the nearest Italian airport is Genova. Both are served by low-cost flights from numerous Italian cities.
What's the weather at Bussana Vecchia? Below are the temperatures and the weather forecast at Bussana Vecchia for the next few days.
Bussana Vecchia is a hamlet of the municipality of Sanremo, situated along the Ligurian Riviera di Ponente, just 2 km from the coast. It lies less than 10 km from central Sanremo and roughly 30 km from Imperia, the provincial capital. Genoa is 140 km to the east.
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